Набираме хора за превод от Английски на Български език

[WDScorpio]

Здравейте, колеги.

Форумът набира хора, които са готови да отделят 30 минути от своето време за превод на кратки статии от Английски на Български език.

Моля желаещите да се свържат с мен.

[Notch]

Здравей, може ли да помогна? Не мога да пиша лични все още...

[fmeew]

И аз мога да помогна

[WDScorpio]

Благодаря, че изявихте желание да помогнете.
Като за начало ни трябва всякаква информация свързана с марихуаната, която не съществува на български език или по-просто казано, не трябва да е копирана от друг сайт.
В момента се подготвя нова секция в сайта с фокус към отглеждането на марихуана, нещо като първи стъпки, за да бъде полезна на хората, които сега започват да се занимават и до момента не са отглеждали марихуана.
ще дам няколко примерни статии, който можете да преведете или да изберете вие други или пък да напишете нещо от себе си, няма ограничение.
Най-лесно и бързо можете да използвате google преводач и след това само да редактирате текста за да придобие смисъл, защото при машинният превод се получават грешки.

[WDScorpio]

Harvest Your Herb

There are several important points to consider when choosing the optimum time to harvest your cannabis crop. There are different factors to consider between indoor and outdoor plants. There is the difference between Sativas and Indicas in bloom duration and final effect. There is the difference between early and late harvest to encourage head to body high respectively. There is the issue of chemistry because what we are really considering in terms of the "ripeness" relates directly to the chemical nature and state of the plant at harvest. Last, but not least, is the concept of "the window of harvest", where I will begin.

The Window of Harvest
This term indicates the period during which the plant is at its optimum state of ripeness. The window "opens" when the plant is first ripe. Somewhere along the line the plant becomes over-ripe which signifies the "closing" of the window of harvest.

For most Indicas grown indoors, the window of harvest is about two weeks long * give or take a couple of days for various strains. Indoors, if going directly from an 18/6 hour vegetative light cycle to a 12/12 hour bud cycle, most indicas take about eight weeks to fully mature.

As to outdoors I can only speak from experience at the 45th parallel and the bloom times there. At the 45th parallel I've found most Indicas to be at peak harvest starting at the beginning of October, sometimes very late September, and running until the end of October, sometimes running into November during mild years or in a greenhouse. My favorite time to harvest a nice Blueberry Indica outdoors is in the second to third week of October.

For Sativa grown either indoors or outdoors, the window may be open much longer. Some Sativas take up to thirteen weeks to mature indoors. Outdoors many will go well into November and even December, if conditions are right (again, this is near or at the 45th parallel).

Head High or Body Stone?
An important consideration has to do with one's preference for a "head" high or more of a "body" high. A good head high can positively influence one's mental state much like a psychedelic; whereas a good body high is more similar to a narcotic effect. Generally, head highs tend to be more up and body highs tend to be more down. Suffice it to say that a good healthy mix of the two is a fine goal to achieve.

Sativas and early window harvests tend to be more of a head high, whereas Indicas and late window harvests tend to be more of a body high. Given this rule of thumb you can pretty much come up with what you want. That is, if you prefer a very psychedelic head high, then an early harvested Sativa might do best. If a very narcotic body high is desired, then a late harvest indicas would probably do best. For that best-of-both worlds high, experimentation with late harvested sativas and early-to-mid harvested indicas usually proves interesting.

Magnify your Buds
When we speak of various highs experienced by different products, we are noting variations in plant chemistry. The chemicals we enjoy are produced within the glandular stalked trichomes, along the surfaces of the bud flowers (calyxes), bracts, leaves and stems, starting in or around the fourth week of the bud cycle. More and more of these trichomes develop as the plant matures.

I highly recommend that the serious cannabis student acquire a 30X power, illuminated magnifier. These can be found at most local electronics stores, often for under fifteen dollars. With the aid of the magnifier one can learn more about the detail of trichome development and ripeness.

As far as trichomes are concerned, the tall ones with swollen, clear, bulbous heads are what to shoot for. The denser the concentration, the greater the potency.

The Cycle of Plant Maturity
Starting in the third or fourth week of the flowering light cycle, glandular stalked trichomes will begin to form along the surfaces of leaves, flowers, bracts and stems. At the same time, more and more flowers (also called calyxes) develop into densely-packed floral clusters.

The pistils of the young flowers are bright white and turn reddish brown with age. The pistils and flowers develop from the bottom of the bud to the top. The older, lower pistils are the first to turn reddish brown. For most basic indicas this usually happens by the sixth week in the flowering cycle. It is about this time that the calyxes begin to swell.

Calyx swelling is a major indicator of peak maturity. The lowest, oldest calyxes swell first and the swelling works its way up to the highest, youngest flowers on each bud. At peak maturity about 90% of the calyxes will almost look seeded, they are so fat. Three quarters to 90% of the pistils will have turned reddish brown as well. For a basic Indica this takes well into the seventh week of the flowering cycle.

By the end of the eighth week most of the calyxes will have swollen and a surge of trichome development has coated most of the buds. It is now that the development of a very discerning palate comes into play to determine the finest harvest time. Remember - patience is a virtue and often a discipline.

The ripening signs for most Sativas are highly similar, except extended over a longer period of time. Occasionally, some Sativas have windows of peak harvest that actually open and close. That is, for a week or so the plant may exhibit signs of peak ripeness. However, a week later the plant may have a growth spurt, which lowers the trichome-to-fibre ratio and overall potency for a little while. Usually a fibrous growth spurt is accompanied by a corresponding trichome increase. Again, time and experience are the key elements in this regard.

Changes in Chemistry
As the plant matures through its window of harvest its chemistry changes. As the window closes, the more desirable compounds begin breaking down into less desirable ones. Primarily it is THC breaking down in CBNs and CBDs.

Which particular combination of chemicals is the most desirable is purely a matter of taste and choice, developed over time and with experience. Set and setting also play an important role in determining which type of product is best appreciated.

Pleasant head highs are often desirable for social occasions, whereas a narcotic late-window Indica may work better as an evening medicinal herb. The main point is that these differences are chemical in nature and more research is needed to more fully understand this phenomenon.

[WDScorpio]

Cure Your Medicine
Proper curing can exponentially increase the quality and desirability of your harvest. The key word to remember is "slow".

Dark & Dry
After cutting the plant or branch, hang it upside down in a cool, dry, and most importantly dark place. Light must be avoided from this point on. Leave the larger shade leaves on and they will gently droop and wrap around the plant, protecting the buds.

The time to the next step depends on how dry your hanging area is. This requires regular checking to determine when to proceed. When the larger shade leaves become dry and brittle to the touch it is time to gently clip them off.

Re-hang the branches in the drying room and regularly check them until the smaller leaves and bud tips become dry and brittle to the touch. It is then time to remove the buds from the branch and remove the rest of the leaf material as best as possible. This is what is referred to as "manicuring".

Now you have a few choices as to what to do with your manicured buds. The buds should still be a little wet at this point, especially on the inside, but the outer part of the buds should be starting to feel dry. Some of the buds, the smaller ones in particular, might even be smokable at this point.

If you are in a more humid area, or if the buds are still feeling heavy with moisture, you may want to try placing them on a suspended screen for a little while. This will help to hasten the drying process. Once again, regular checking to decide when they are ready for the next stage is crucial. This is also a skill that is developed more with time and experience, so practice!

Brown Bagging It
Once the buds are crisp on the outside but still moist on the inside it is time for the next step in the process: the paper bag. I like to use brown paper shopping bags due to their not being bleached, an unwanted chemical.

Simply fill a paper bag a few inches deep with the manicured buds. Don't pack the buds down and do not fold the bag too tight. A few small folds at the top of the bag, like a lunch bag, should suffice.

If the buds are a tad wet or if humid conditions dominate, you might want to consider cutting a few small holes in the bag, above the level of the buds, for ventilation.

As with proper manicuring, regular checking is key. The bags should be gently shaken, ever-so-carefully turning the buds, at least once a day. As the buds dry they will naturally compact into the self-preserving state that we all know and love. It is at this time that the buds can be more compacted together and the bag folded down tighter. They should now be fully smokable, though perhaps still slightly damp at the core.

The entire process, from harvest to these first smokable products, should take anywhere from two to four weeks, depending on your climate. Extremes in climate, such as very arid deserts or tropical humid areas, may take more or less time. There is no substitute for consistent, hands-on checking.


The Final Stage
A final curing stage, preferred by most connoisseurs, involves sealable jars. The nearly ready buds are transferred from the bag to the jar, packed in very loosely, and the jar is sealed. It is very important in the early jar-stage to check the buds at least once a day.

I like to dump them all out of the jar and gently fluff them up at least once a day at first, then less often as time progresses, usually for a week to ten days. It is important to be as gentle as possible so as not to damage too many of the resin glands. After a week or so all I do is simply open the jar and check the buds on a daily basis.

Watch for Mold
The main thing to watch (and smell) for throughout all of the curing process is mold. Whenever mold is found it must be dealt with immediately. The moldy bud needs to be removed, and the rest of the product needs to be exposed to a drier environment for a while.

The simplest solution is to go back one step. For example, if the mold was detected in the jar stage simply put the rest of the product back to the bag stage for awhile (after removing the contaminated product from the batch). If the mold is detected in the bag stage, go back to the screen. The screen is the driest process that I know of. If problems with the mold occur prior to this, a dehumidifier in the drying room may be the answer.

Aside from watching and smelling for mold, always remember to keep the product in the dark.

Ready to go!
A bud is completely dry, cured, and ready for sale or consumption when the stem in the middle of the bud snaps when the bud is cracked with the fingers. The snap is easy to detect with practice. It is at this stage that the product can safely be sealed and stored for an indefinite period of time.

The longer you can stretch out this process, while also avoiding mold, the better. I like when it takes six to eight weeks from harvest to the finished product. You will be able to detect the fragrance of the product becoming more and more desirable as time progresses.

[WDScorpio]

Short Guide To Picking The Best Fertilizer For Your Marijuana Plants
Fertilizers feed and nourish plants. Using too much of the wrong thing will curse or kill your plants. And, that applies to cannabis plants, too.

Whether you’re growing grass indoors or out, organically or not, or in a kitchen window or hothouse, you should feed their growth. Here’s a short guide to picking the best fertilizer for your marijuana plants.

The key fertilizer elements:
Growing things need trace minerals, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. You work these amendments into the soil before planting, and without official standards, they vary from one fertilizer brand to another.

But, you can look for the N-P-K on the label. These are chemical table symbols for Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potassium. These appear as a three number sequence representing the element’s percentage of the weight. Still, you are left to trust to the manufacturer’s labeling.

Nitrogen: The growth of all flowering things depends on Nitrogen. Natural sources include blood meal, guano, and manure. Nitrogen is key to the photosynthesis that generates chlorophyll, converts carbon to sugar, energizes rapid growth, and increases foliage volume.
Phosphorous: They refine phosphorous from phosphate, process it from bird and bat guano, and grind it from bone meal. It really goes to work when the plants reach flowering stage. Blooming needs phosphorous feeding and responds with bud health, volume, and density.
Potassium: An alkali metal, potassium markets as potash to avoid unstable reactions with water and air. So, you must read labels to exclude potassium oxide because the K2O is caustic. Potash labeled K2SO4, K2SO4, 2MgSO4, and K2Mg2(SO4) should help strengthen plant immunity and improve flower growth and bloom.
Farmers committed to strictly organic products mix their own fertilizers, but even they risk undesirable chemical balances and reactions. Purely organic or homemade fertilizers release nutrients slowly, and that reduces the risk of overdoing it.

How to fertilize:
Fertilizer differs from plant food. Feeding plants helps them grow. But, fertilizers make them produce. All soils have some level of N-P-K, but growth will use it up without supplementation.

Cannabis fertilizers are readily available and vary from need to need. Because they pair fertilizers to the growth stage, you want to buy and use them as instructed. And, each strain has its own schedule of rooting, budding, and flowering.

Dissolve the fertilizer in water when irrigating, but you must flush all fertilizers from the soil over with clean water through the two weeks prior to harvest.
Spray leaves of larger plants with fertilizer solution and watch leaves for signs of nutrient deficiency.
Choose potting soils with a pH value of seven in high organic content, but because N-P-K lowers the pH value, you should add calcium as needed.
Fertilize and water according to plant size, pot size, and soil type understanding that too much water or too much fertilizer will damage or kill the plant.
Avoid concentrated dosages by fertilizing every two weeks after the fifth week until plants flower.
Germination: Seeds and clones do not need help in their earliest stage. There’s no sense feeding them extra nutrients until they have developed a tap root.

Vegetation: N-P-K requirements change through the growth period. For example, seedlings look for a 2-1-2 ratio. At three to four weeks, the early plants want more nitrogen at 4-2-3. And, at five to six weeks, they need even more nitrogen at 10-5-7. You also should follow manufacturer’s instructions for growth in coco air or hydroponics.

Flowering: As the plants bloom, they need a phosphorous boost. As the respective strain’s schedule approaches flowering, you can use a 7-7-7 mixture for about a week before to help the plant transition. Next, increased phosphorous enters the balance. At first flowering, the ratio is 5-10-7. Mid-flowering needs 6-15-10, and late stage flowering benefits from 4-10-7.

Some recommendations
The most effective and efficient fertilizers may be handmade. Compost and meals do the job, but they remain inconvenient.

It makes good sense to favor product lines that offer each of the needs for your farming. Some lines offer soils, liquids, nutrients, and fertilizers, each of them balanced with its related products. Fox Farms and Flower Power, for example, offer total care with feeds configured for each stage of marijuana farming.

Scotts® Miracle-Gro® with its 24-8-16 ratio is water soluble and low cost. Some users complain of an ammonia taste, and some growers report burning plants out. But, Scotts has purchased General Hydroponics to enter the cannabis economy more fully.

Milorganite® is a high-nitrogen, organic innovation produced by the Milwaukee Metropolitan Sewage District. The reclaimed sewage water and by-products are processed through a complex system that adds microbes that consume the nutrient. They then settle to the bottom before they are kiln-dried and tested.

Dyna-Gro™ has its own line of high phosphorous hydroponics. But, they also offer total planning through Foliage-Pro®, GROW™, and BLOOM™. The Dyna-Gro Bloom’s 3-12-6 ration fills most cannabis growth and flowering needs.

Potassium silicate increases production of resin glands which hold the THC. Larger glands mean more THC and more strain potency. Available as liquid or powder under many labels like AgSil®, potassium silicate resists fungus, reduces water loss, and increases growth and yield.

What you’re left with
There is no single best fertilizer for your marijuana plants. So many factors come into play that you need personal flexibility and a lot of knowledge.

If you raise a plant or two in the house, it calls for one strategy, just as you might have for caring for succulents or violets. If you raise many plants in a greenhouse, you must bring lighting and irrigation into the mix. If you raise plants in a natural outdoor environment, you must adapt fertilizers and their administration to their biosphere, including temperature, aeration, and rain.

Try not to over buy. Study the strains you are planting, their respective climate tolerance, and the growth cycle. Test your local soil or purchase soil developed for marijuana productivity.

And, remember, yield volume is not the only metric of productivity. Only experience will prove what fertilizer helps grow products with the best flavor, aroma, and impact for you.

[WDScorpio]

As a refresher, PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) is a region of the electromagnetic spectrum (400 to 700 nm) that promotes photosynthesis. PPF (Photosynthetic Photon Flux) is a critical metric that tells us how much PAR a light-source emits. PPF does not measure PAR at a specific location (e.g. your crop canopy), but it tells you how many photons within the PAR region are coming out of the light-source every second. PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) measures the amount of photons within the PAR region at a specific location (e.g. the amount of light delivered to your canopy) every second. If you have a PAR meter, it is reporting PPFD (μmol/m2/s) measurements. You must understand the differences in these metrics before you can compare various horticulture lighting systems. Many manufacturers realize this can be a confusing topic, so it is very easy for companies to mislead potential customers with exaggerated marketing claims, misleading information, and by showing a limited set of (or using blatantly wrong) metrics. However, once you understand the differences in these metrics, you will be able to cut through all the ‘marketing’ and ‘hype’ and simply ask manufacturers to provide the data you need to successfully compare lighting fixtures.

In order to explain the correct method for evaluating a horticulture lighting system, let’s first highlight some of the metrics used today that you need to avoid:

RULE NUMBER 1: Don’t use electrical watts to compare grow lights
RULE NUMBER 2: Don’t use lumens to compare grow lights
RULE NUMBER 3: Don’t be fooled by a company that claims to have a magical growth spectrum
RULE NUMBER 4: Don’t just look at a single PPFD measurement directly under the fixture
RULE NUMBER 5: Don’t focus on the wattage of the LEDs used in the fixture (1W, 3W, 5W, etc.)
In general, if you see a company using any of the above items to promote their horticulture lights, run away and don’t look back. None of these metrics, nor their derivatives, tell you anything about the performance of a horticulture lighting system.

Rule No. 1: Don’t Use Electrical Watts To Compare Grow Lights
Many people use total electrical watts, dollar/watt or watts/square foot to compare horticulture lighting systems, but these metrics are 100% useless and will most likely lead a consumer to make a poor purchase decision. Why? Simple. Electricity doesn’t grow plants. Furthermore, radiometric efficiency (how much light a fixture emits per watt of electricity) can vary by up to 200% amongst the popular LED fixtures on the market today. Hence, since light (not electricity) grows plants, you need to ask how much light a fixture emits. It sounds simple, but 99.9% of horticulture lighting companies do not advertise this metric. Instead, they focus on electrical watts. Why? Because it is very hard to design an efficient lighting system (measured in μmol/J) that delivers high light levels, but it is very easy to build an inefficient lighting system that consumes a lot of electricity. High efficiency LEDs, power supplies and optics cost more than less efficient components, and many manufacturers use lower quality components to increase profit margins

Remember…You are not buying watts. You are buying a system that delivers light to grow your plants, so a quantitative measurement of light output and the efficiency in which the system produces that light is the critical metric you should use to compare the performance of horticulture lighting solutions.

Rule No. 2: Don’t Use Lumens To Compare Grow Lights
This one’s easy to explain. A lumen is a rating of how bright a light appears to the human eye. However, since human vision is not correlated to photosynthetic grow rates, total lumens is a dead metric. As a rule, if someone is trying to promote lumens for a horticulture lighting system, they should not be selling horticulture lighting systems.

Rule No. 3: Don’t Be Fooled By “Magical Growth Spectrums”
Many scientific papers have confirmed that all wavelengths from 400 to 700 nm (the typical PAR range) will grow plants. However, there is a myth that is widely propagated on the Internet that claims plants do not use green light. Many companies promote their magical growth spectrum by publishing the commonly-referenced Chlorophyll A and B absorption spectrum chart. Armed with this chart, they mention that plants are green, so plants reflect green light from the full-spectrum light source. Have you heard this one before? Without going any deeper into this topic, it is important to note that there is no magical spectrum that is going to allow a 50W fixture to replace a 1000W fixture because it only uses the “wavelengths that plants need.” While plants certainly have numerous pigments and photoreceptors across the PAR range, nothing will trump the need for delivering the required levels of light (PPFD) to your plants. Spectrum has a very real effect on plant development, but be cautious of a company that spends too much time talking about their special spectrum (especially if they do not spend equal effort in publishing their delivered PAR measurements). There is a short list of companies who manufacture commercial-grade LED fixtures for the professional horticulture industry, and none of them market the number of LED ‘bands’ in their fixture.

Rule No. 4: Don’t Look At A Single PPFD Measurement
Let’s take a quick look at Rule 4. Unless you are growing a small plant directly under your light, a single PPFD measurement doesn’t tell you much. By clustering the LEDs closely together and using narrow beam optics, it is very easy for a manufacturer to show an extremely high PAR measurement directly under the fixture. However, unless you are only growing one plant in this exact location, you need to know how much PAR is being distributed across the entire canopy. Since most LED lighting systems centralize the LEDs into a small fixture footprint, these systems naturally produce very high PPFD levels directly under the fixture. However, these light levels will drop significantly as you move the PAR sensor just a small distance from the main fixture housing. If you are growing over a 4’ x 4’ area, you need to review the PPFD levels over the entire area to calculate the average light level the lighting system is providing. If you only had a center point measurement you may assume a fixture is extremely powerful. However, you would need multiple measurements across the 4×4 grow area to calculate the average amount of PAR that is provided by the fixture. Light uniformity across the grow area varies greatly from fixture to fixture, and unfortunately, most manufacturers do not publish complete PAR maps. It is easy to produce high PPFD numbers directly under the fixture, but it takes a very powerful and well-designed light to deliver high (and uniform) PPFD values across an entire canopy.

Rule No. 5: Don’t Focus On The Wattage Of The LED’s
Do you use 1W, 3W, 5W or 10W LEDs? We are asked this question on a frequent basis, but the wattage of the LED does not tell you anything meaningful about the lighting system’s performance. Since LED and fixture efficiency varies widely, the wattage of the LED is not a meaningful metric. Remember, the LED wattage is a system input, and growers care about the system output. Hence, the LED wattage doesn’t tell us anything about the system’s ability to deliver light to your plants.

As a simple analogy, the LED inside a lighting system is equivalent to the engine in a car. By itself, the horsepower rating of the engine doesn’t tell you how fast the car will go. Pair a high-horsepower engine with a poorly designed transmission, and the car will not go very fast. Hence, as far as the driver is concerned, the relevant metrics for a car are related to the overall performance (e.g. 0-60 mph time, top speed, miles per gallon). Any reference to a component inside the car is irrelevant to the driver. It is the same situation with lighting systems. The amount of light delivered to your grow area (PPFD), the electrical watt consumption, and the light distribution pattern are the important metrics to focus on, so ask for more information if a manufacturer wants to focus on the type of LED they use.

Note: Since LED quality varies by a very wide margin, it is important to know the brand of LEDs used in the lighting system. There are a handful of world-class LED manufacturers, so make sure you find out what brand of LEDs are used in the lighting system. Assuming the fixture manufacturer has developed a reliable fixture design, higher quality LEDs should last longer if they are not being over-driven to achieve higher light levels.

Again, you are buying light to grow and develop your plants. In our opinion, you want to buy a lighting system that delivers the required amount of light to your plants for the lowest initial cost, while consuming the fewest electrical watts possible. Ask the fixture manufacturer to provide the following pieces on information: PPF, input watts, and PPFD maps for your intended coverage area. With this information, you can calculate: PPF/$, μmol/J, light distribution patterns, and uniformity levels.

[WDScorpio]

How To Grow Autoflowering Strains
Hey guys, I get asked a lot about autos and how to treat them so I put together a little booklet on how to grow them. Since the accurate info thread is so long now it can be hard to find what you are looking for so I though I would make it easy for you and just post the booklet here so you will have all the info in one place to read at your leisure.

Chapters
Introduction

Preparation

Feeding Procedures

Harvesting

Drying and Curing

Troubleshooting

Reference
Introduction

This book is meant as a quick reference guide for growers of photoperiod plants who want to try auto-flowering plants. By this I mean that I am assuming that you have a grow space, lighting, air circulation, carbon filter etc.. ready to go and set up on a timer system.

Autos vs Photos
There are many pro's and con's to both varieties but for this short guide I will just be going through the differences in genetics and requirements.

Genetics
Photoperiod plants require a drop in the available light hours from 18 to 12, in order for them to begin flowering and producing buds.

Autoflowering plants do not need this change, they will show sex at around 21 days old and then continue on to full maturity even under 24hrs of light.

There are three types of cannabis plant
Indica
Sativa
Ruderalis

Autoflowering plants contain the ruderalis gene which dictates flowering by age rather than light exposure
This presents a number of possibilities as it does away with the need for a veg room. I believe these possibilities are the main reason that autoflowering plants have become so popular. This potential for perpetual grows and a constant supply has changed the world of marijuana forever.

Requirements
Autos require different treatment to photos in order to get the best out of them.

Here are the two key differences:
Photos require a 12/12 light cycle to flower. Autos do best under a 20/4 light cycle for the whole life of the plant

Photos can take stronger nutrients. When using nutrients on autos always use half the recommended dose. You can always play with this as some stains can take more nutrients than others.

Preparation
So you have your equipment, your grow room is all ready and you are itching to start growing your own Autoflowering cannabis. There is still a bit of preparation to do before we can start growing though. So lets get started!

Soil Preparation
Preparing your soil in advance is the easiest way to avoid problems. By taking the time to get it right now you can save a lot of head aches down the line.

To buy or to make?
You can get good soils for autoflowering cannabis from all good hydro shops.
I would recommend a light mix like Plagron light mix.

Personally I don't like going into hydro shops so I mix my own soil which I get from the local garden centre. If you are going to mix your own soil then first you will need everything on the following list

Soil Ingredients
ph spike
fish blood and bone
egg shells (washed, dried and powdered)
bat guano
perlite
vermiculite
multipurpose compost(low nutrients, not miracle grow!)

Everything on this list is readily available at good garden centres except bat guano. This is easy enough to get on Amazon or Ebay

Mix
60% Multipurpose compost
20% Perlite
20% Vermiculite
this will be your base mix

To this you will need to add:
1 tablespoon of bat guano per 8 litres
1 tablespoon of fish blood and bone per 8 litres
2 powdered egg shells per 8 litres

Now wet the soil and test the ph with your soil ph spike, this will give you an indication of the ph but not a proper reading

Getting the ph right
Now you have your soil mix you want to let it sit for at least a day or 2 for the ph to stabilise then test it and make sure it is in the 6.5-6.8 ph range. If it is a little over I.e between 6.8-7 then leave it, if not then you will need to amend your soil to the right ph. Use dolomite/garden lime to raise the ph and sulphur pellets to lower it.

Potting up
You will want to fill your pots and wet them about a week before you are going to plant anything. This way you can check the soil ph again before you plant to ensure it is stable and in the correct range.

Make sure you use a minimum of an 8 litre pot. For most autos grown indoors 10-12 litres is the ideal pot size. For super autos you will need at least a 15 litre pot.

Germination
Now you have everything ready, you have the hardest choice. What strain to grow?
Once you have figured this out you will need to germinate the seed and plant it.
There are a few ways of doing this and I have given you two options below.

Option 1 - Root Riot Cubes

put the seed into a root riot cube and keep moist and warm until the seed sprouts from the cube and roots become visible on the outside of the cube.

Plant the cube directly into the plants final home
Option 2 – Paper Towel Method

Place a folded paper towel into a plastic container(you want about four layers of paper towel on the top and bottom)

Wet the paper towel

Place the seed on top of the wet paper towel

Cover with another folded paper towel

Ensure there is sufficient water(paper towels should be very wet, but not flooded)

Place somewhere warm to germinate

Once germinated transplant to its final home
Preparation is over and its time to see the plants grow!

Feeding Procedures
In this section I will lay out a guide for feeding your plants and avoiding issues.

General Principals
When feeding your plants you will need to ensure that

Your water is ready
The plant is healthy(if the plant is not healthy go to troubleshooting section)
The plants have the correct environment i.e. soil ph is between 6.5 and 6.8(see troubleshooting section for ph correction)
Nutrients are correct strength
PH of feed is adjusted according to soil PH
Adequate water is held by the soil
Getting Your Water Ready

All the water you use to feed your plants should be allowed to sit for at least 12hrs before use. Tap water comes loaded with chlorine and this evaporates while the water sits and makes it better for your plants.

If you want to see explosive growth then you will also need to bubble your water. To do this just use an aquarium air pump and air stone. You place the stone in the water and allow bubbles to pas through it. The water should be bubbled for at least 12 hrs.

By bubbling the water you allow oxygen to be dissolved in the water which is highly beneficial for the roots.

Plant Health Check

Before you feed your plant you need to check and see if it is healthy. If you see any of the following signs then go to the troubleshooting section.
Pale or discoloured leaves

Spots on leaves

Curling leaves

Insects or pests

Sour smell from the soil

Checking Soil
Before making up your feed you will need to test the soil ph. To ensure you get an accurate reading follow these steps:

Wet the soil if it is completely dry.

If you are using a cheap ph spike then scrub the probe with a scouring pad, otherwise you will get false readings.

Spike soil and let the reading stabilise for about 3 – 5 mins
If your soil is not in the 6 – 7 range then go to troubleshooting.

Mixing the Feed

Now you have all the info you need to mix your feed.

Getting this right is crucial to a successful grow. Too weak and you will not get the full potential from the plant, too strong and you can damage or even kill your plant, and if your ph is off then it can block the absorption of nutrients completely

To make sure you have the correct mix I have put a feeding chart at the back of this book for reference.

Once you have added all the nutrients to your feed you will need to test the ph of your feed and adjust it to meet the needs of your plant.

If your soil is in the correct ph range then always water at PH 6.5

PH Adjustments

For minor corrections in soil ph the feed can be used.

To explain this lets say your soil ph is 6.2 and you want it at 6.5

To correct it you take the difference of what the soil ph is and what you want it to be. In this case 0.3, then double it( 0.6 ) and add it to the soil ph ( 6.2 ) and you get the ph you need to water at to correct the imbalance (6.8)

So its

Find the difference

Required Soil ph – Actual Soil ph = Difference
- 6.2 = 0.3
​
Then

Difference x 2 + Soil ph = Feed ph

(0.3 x 2) + 6.2 = 6.8

0.6 + 6.2 = 6.8

By using this formula you can correct low ph problems. For high ph problems instead of adding the (difference x 2) subtract it.

Flushing Salts
When your plants use the nutrients you are feeding them there is salt created as a by-product. This salt can build up and become toxic. To avoid this you should always make more feed than you need.

The reason for this is that you need to allow the feed to flow through the soil and wash away the salts that can build up.

Adequate Saturation
It is very important to water slowly!
By feeding slowly you allow the soil time to absorb the liquid.
When your soil is dry it will allow liquid to run right through the pot with very little being absorbed by the soil. If you water slowly then the liquid will be absorbed by the soil and have a chance to wash away any salts that may be present in the soil.

When slow watering NEVER re-use the run off water as this will contain the salts.

Harvesting

When to Harvest

The easiest way to know when to harvest an auto-flowering plant is to wait until the fan leaves have yellowed and died, at this point the plant is at its peak and its time to harvest.

If you have a jewelers loupe or a microscope then you can have a look at the trichomes and see if they are ready. You can tell by their colour if they are ready. I have put a trichomes reference chart at the back of this book. I like to harvest at around 20% amber

If they are ready now all you need to do is trim away all the leaves and start drying the plant

Drying and Curing

Drying
The simple way to dry your bud is the paper bag method.

For this you need to get some brown paper bags.

Place your buds into the paper bags and fold the top over to seal it.

Place somewhere with good air circulation and allow to dry until the stems snap when bent
Curing

Take your dry buds and your small humidity meter and place them into an airtight container

open/burp the container three times a day for 15 mins each time. Continue doing this until your relative humidity reaches 67%

Once 67% RH is reached burp once a month
Troubleshooting

PH and Deficiencies
9 times out of 10 the problem indoor growers have is a bad soil ph. The bad ph causes a lockout of nutrients and this shows itself as nutrient deficiency in the plant.

If you have a bad soil ph it is important to correct it as soon as possible.

To raise soil ph use dolomite or garden lime

To lower soil ph use sulphur pellets

There is a ph nutrient availability chart in the reference section. I have also included a deficiency identification chart so you can diagnose and correct any deficiency you may have.

The most common nutrient problems are

Nitrogen deficiency – caused by lack of food or bad ph – cure – correct the ph / give stronger feed

Calcium/magnesium deficiency – caused by lack of nutrients or ph lockout – cure – correct ph / feed molasses / add cal/mag liquid feed
Pests
Some of the pests you get in a grow room can be devastating. Things like spider mites and thrips can destroy a whole crop if left unchecked.

For these pests I recommend you use a pesticide that is designed to kill thrips and spidermites as these ones will usually kill everything else too.

DO NOT SPRAY PESTICIDE ON BUDS, YOU WILL MAKE THEM POISONUS

If you have budding plants and want to get rid of the pests with no risk to your bud them you can use ladybugs/ladybirds. They can be ordered from garden centres or online. Once released into your grow room they will eat all of your bugs and leave the plants untouched.

I have included pictures of the common bugs in the reference section.

So there you have it a quick guide to Autos, I hope this book helps you produce some winning plants
LIFECYCLE OF AN AUTO

A common question I see is when to switch autos from veg to bloom. Many people are under the impression that as soon as they see the first flowers it's time to switch. Perhaps a little explanation of the life cycle of autos will help to clarify this.

Weeks 1 - 3. Once you've started your seeds and they break the surface of the soil, they are in their seedling stage. The first set of leaves to appear will usually single fingered, followed by a second set that may still be single fingered or perhaps 3 fingered. Once that second set appears growth will start to accelerate as the new leaves provide more photosynthesis. This process will continue, more new leaves, faster growth. Depending on the type of soil in use, mild vegetative nutes can be introduced at week 2. By week 3 most plants will start to show their sex. Males will start to produce pollen sacks and females will display pistils.

Weeks 4 - 6. The plants are now entering a pre flowering stage. During this time the plants should exhibit explosive growth, often as much as a new set of nodes and 1" vertical growth a day. This is the time when they will gain most of their vertical height. Many people make the mistake of switching from vegetative to flowering nutrients at this point, assuming that since they see flowers it must be the proper time. This is incorrect. If the switch to flowering nutes is made at this time the vertical growth will stop and the plant will put it's energy into producing buds. If you need to keep your plants small, or want them to finish earlier, they by all means switch nutes at this point. But if you want to get the most out of your plants continue feeding vegetative nutes until you see the vertical growth slow and stop. Depending on the strain that will usually be sometime during week 5 or 6.

Weeks 7 - 9. By now vertical growth has stopped and the switch to flowering nutrients has been made. The buds will start to fill out and put on weight, becoming hard and tight. Pistols will start to change from white to brown, orange, red, etc. By now the plants will also have developed a strong smell. Toward the end of this phase the large primary and smaller secondary fan leaves will begin to turn yellow. This is an indication that the plant is moving toward the end of it's life.

Weeks 10 - 11. At this time flowering nutes should be discontinued and only plain pHed water fed to flush the remaining nutrients from the soil and improve the taste. Yellowing of the fan leaves will continue as the plant draws the stored energy from them. Eventually they will die and fall off. By the time that the smaller leaves that come from out of the buds will also start to turn yellow. Then it's time to harvest.

I know that many of you are thinking that the seed bank said the plants will finish in 8-9 weeks, so why are you saying they take 10-11? The claims made by the seed banks are somewhat deceptive. If you switch to flowering nutes at week 3 or 4 the plants can finish in the times the seed banks say but they will remain small and not reach their full potential yield. Years of growing by myself and others has shown that autos do best if you follow this time line.

[WDScorpio]

Това са само примери и вие можете да изберете каквато искате информация.