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Здравейте
Ден 8 - 12/12
Вчера полях с разтвор на 0.7 КалМаг, 3мл ТераВега, 2мл Ризотоник, 2.5 Канназим и 2мл КаннаБууст.
Ph. 6, EC - 1.25
Темп - 21-25 градуса. RH - 45-50%.
Най-жадните с 1350мл другите с 1000мл.
Има две на които листата са доста подвити, тях съм ги полял с разтвор на 0.1 Калмаг, 1мл ризо, 1мл Канназим - pH 6
На снимките се виждат двете с подвитите писта.
Поздрави!
Добре дошли! Моля запознайте се с нашите ПОЛИТИКА ЗА ПОВЕРИТЕЛНОСТ и УСЛОВИЯ ЗА ПОЛЗВАНЕ
преди да продължите!
Производството, купуването, продаването, разпространението и притежанието на наркотици се наказва от закона в голяма част от държавите по света! Моля запознайте се с местните си закони.
преди да продължите!
Производството, купуването, продаването, разпространението и притежанието на наркотици се наказва от закона в голяма част от държавите по света! Моля запознайте се с местните си закони.
Pablo's първи дневник
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Pablo
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Поради някаква причина е прикачило само първата.
Тук са другите.
Растат на страни, а не нагоре. Изглежда ми, че има доста осветени budsites.
Тук са другите.
Растат на страни, а не нагоре. Изглежда ми, че има доста осветени budsites.
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"Ако А е успехът в живота, тогава А = X + Y + Z. Работата е Х; Забавлението е Y; а Z е да си държиш езика зад зъбите."
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Spiral
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Pablo
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Сложил съм общо 4 вентилатора - 3 малки КЛИПС които са на 1 и са закачени високо и един долу който е по-големичък и силен, но духа в палатката...
Не духа в тях повече отколкото в другите които се чувстват прекрасно... знам ли.
Сега съм ги сложил по средата под лампата точно там духа най малко да видим дали ще се оправят... така правилно ли е да са под лампата в центъра на 100% щом са извити?
Поздрави!
"Ако А е успехът в живота, тогава А = X + Y + Z. Работата е Х; Забавлението е Y; а Z е да си държиш езика зад зъбите."
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Spiral
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Това извиване съм почти сигурен ,че е wind burn и не не е проблем,че те ще са под лампата сега.Pablo написа: ↑10 Мар 2023, 18:53Сложил съм общо 4 вентилатора - 3 малки КЛИПС които са на 1 и са закачени високо и един долу който е по-големичък и силен, но духа в палатката...
Не духа в тях повече отколкото в другите които се чувстват прекрасно... знам ли.
Сега съм ги сложил по средата под лампата точно там духа най малко да видим дали ще се оправят... така правилно ли е да са под лампата в центъра на 100% щом са извити?
Поздрави!
Keep on growing 
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DeutschBuds
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Не е от wind burn, защото при първия ми гроу бяха станали така, а вентилатора изобщо не духаше в тях.Сега се разрових и се зачетох и доста гроуръри казват, че при голяма разлика във влажностра и температурата.Ще го споделя на английски
First, I should qualify that everything I'm about to say is my experience, which is not like that of others. I've had the best runs keeping flowering RH >50%, closer to 60% is much better (even higher RH values, read some of what Jalisco Kid has written on the subject). I keep vegging plants typically much higher. This is with specific regard to indoor growing.
Second, what I see is exactly like the worst heat stress I've seen, in all plants, not just cannabis. The plant is turning leaves inward and under in order to conserve moisture and reduce its profile (heat catching surface area).
Third, I've found that the larger the plant, the greater variation in VPD values it can tolerate. Also, the larger the plant, the less the RH, and therefore VPD, varies.
Fourth, dude's running CO2, which should allow the plants to tolerate higher heat, but if I understand anything about it, should also allow (require?) higher RH levels.
First, I should qualify that everything I'm about to say is my experience, which is not like that of others. I've had the best runs keeping flowering RH >50%, closer to 60% is much better (even higher RH values, read some of what Jalisco Kid has written on the subject). I keep vegging plants typically much higher. This is with specific regard to indoor growing.
Second, what I see is exactly like the worst heat stress I've seen, in all plants, not just cannabis. The plant is turning leaves inward and under in order to conserve moisture and reduce its profile (heat catching surface area).
Third, I've found that the larger the plant, the greater variation in VPD values it can tolerate. Also, the larger the plant, the less the RH, and therefore VPD, varies.
Fourth, dude's running CO2, which should allow the plants to tolerate higher heat, but if I understand anything about it, should also allow (require?) higher RH levels.
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DeutschBuds
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Ето още информация намерих и си отговорих на въпросите, ако не разбираш може са копираш и в гугъл теанслейт да си преведеш :
Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> “Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”, or, “My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?” Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the “solution” the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I’ll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.
1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (in the root medium) compared to the salinity levels found in the plant’s tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root’s epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.
2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant. The damaged leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
3. High Light - yes, it’s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.
4. Overwatering - for those doing soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Overwatering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.
5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water. And of course, leach once in a while to get rid of excess salts.
All of the above issues relate to a plant's internal cell turgor or cell water pressure. If water pressure within the plant's stem and leaf cells are positive, the plant will look strong and stocky with flat leaves that are cool to the touch due to good transpiration from the leaf surface. By the same token, if the water pressure is not up to par, whereby water is being extracted from the plant and not replenished like it should be.... the leaves and/or stems will droop.
Happy gardening,
Uncle Ben
Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> “Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”, or, “My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?” Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the “solution” the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I’ll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.
1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (in the root medium) compared to the salinity levels found in the plant’s tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root’s epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.
2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant. The damaged leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
3. High Light - yes, it’s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.
4. Overwatering - for those doing soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Overwatering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.
5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water. And of course, leach once in a while to get rid of excess salts.
All of the above issues relate to a plant's internal cell turgor or cell water pressure. If water pressure within the plant's stem and leaf cells are positive, the plant will look strong and stocky with flat leaves that are cool to the touch due to good transpiration from the leaf surface. By the same token, if the water pressure is not up to par, whereby water is being extracted from the plant and not replenished like it should be.... the leaves and/or stems will droop.
Happy gardening,
Uncle Ben
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Pablo
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Здравейте,
Ден 12 - 12/12
26 градуса през деня, 21 през нощта. Лампата е на 35-40см от най-високото на 100%
RH - 45-50%.,
Поляти с х1340мл разтвор на - 0.7мл/л КалМаг 3.5мл/л Терра Вега + 2мл/л + Ризотоник 2.5мл/л + КанаЗим + 2мл/л КанаБууст.
pH - 6.0 , ЕС - 1.45.
Още една поливка ще им направя с ТерраВега и започвам да им сипвам Флорес., ще са направили точно 2 седмици цъфтеж.
Поздрави!
Ден 12 - 12/12
26 градуса през деня, 21 през нощта. Лампата е на 35-40см от най-високото на 100%
RH - 45-50%.,
Поляти с х1340мл разтвор на - 0.7мл/л КалМаг 3.5мл/л Терра Вега + 2мл/л + Ризотоник 2.5мл/л + КанаЗим + 2мл/л КанаБууст.
pH - 6.0 , ЕС - 1.45.
Още една поливка ще им направя с ТерраВега и започвам да им сипвам Флорес., ще са направили точно 2 седмици цъфтеж.
Поздрави!
- Прикачени файлове
-
"Ако А е успехът в живота, тогава А = X + Y + Z. Работата е Х; Забавлението е Y; а Z е да си държиш езика зад зъбите."
- Алберт Айнщайн
- Алберт Айнщайн
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Pablo
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- Регистриран на: 25 Яну 2023, 03:15
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Здравейте,
Ден 14 - 12/12
26 градуса през деня, 21 през нощта. Лампата е на 35-40см от най-високото на 100%
RH - 55-60%., при пуснат влагоуловител с комресор хубав и едвам сваля на 60 % влажност... като поливам с по 1.5Л на бройка и върти в стаята направо не може да насмогва много изпарява... нямам търпение да дойде ден 21 да ги окастря да спрат да пият толкова вода че ще мухлясат, а дадох 400лв за влагоуловител с компресор...
Поляти с х1500мл разтвор на - 0.7мл/л КалМаг 3.5мл/л Терра Вега + 2мл/л + Ризотоник 2.5мл/л + КанаЗим + 2мл/л КанаБууст.
pH - 6.0 , ЕС - 1.45.
Като отворя вратата да влезе въздух (2-3 пъти на ден я оставям, а като е 15 градуса навън и по цял ден) пада влажността веднага на 30-35%... няма угодия.
Тая китка с ноктите изглежда нещо не е както трябва... тя единствена. Първо тия нокти... после има по едно две листа едни кафяви работи сега ще видите на снимката.
Поздрави!
Ден 14 - 12/12
26 градуса през деня, 21 през нощта. Лампата е на 35-40см от най-високото на 100%
RH - 55-60%., при пуснат влагоуловител с комресор хубав и едвам сваля на 60 % влажност... като поливам с по 1.5Л на бройка и върти в стаята направо не може да насмогва много изпарява... нямам търпение да дойде ден 21 да ги окастря да спрат да пият толкова вода че ще мухлясат, а дадох 400лв за влагоуловител с компресор...
Поляти с х1500мл разтвор на - 0.7мл/л КалМаг 3.5мл/л Терра Вега + 2мл/л + Ризотоник 2.5мл/л + КанаЗим + 2мл/л КанаБууст.
pH - 6.0 , ЕС - 1.45.
Като отворя вратата да влезе въздух (2-3 пъти на ден я оставям, а като е 15 градуса навън и по цял ден) пада влажността веднага на 30-35%... няма угодия.
Тая китка с ноктите изглежда нещо не е както трябва... тя единствена. Първо тия нокти... после има по едно две листа едни кафяви работи сега ще видите на снимката.
Поздрави!
- Прикачени файлове
-
-
-
"Ако А е успехът в живота, тогава А = X + Y + Z. Работата е Х; Забавлението е Y; а Z е да си държиш езика зад зъбите."
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- Алберт Айнщайн
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Sofia Cannabis
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Cal-Mag искат
Най-добрата трева е домашно отгледаната трева.
www.youtube.com/@SofiaCanna
#БГКоноп
www.youtube.com/@SofiaCanna
#БГКоноп
